White or beige, but never black, the “desert truffle” is a rare delicacy with a dedicated marketplace in Kuwait, where remnants of the Iraqi invasion and changing weather patterns have decimated local production. Less prestigious and less expensive than its darker cousin, the Middle Eastern truffle is a prized ingredient for bedouins, who integrate it into their traditional rice and meat dishes or in sauces, boiled with onions. On the outskirts of Kuwait City, in the Rai industrial district, connoisseurs begin perusing the truffle souk at 9 a.m., surveying the various weights and colors and using their noses to select the best fungus. Some barter while others go straight for the top shelf, with the “Zebidi” variety especially prized for its use in traditional recipes. Demand is so high in the Gulf emirate’s market that each year hundreds of merchants compete for limited stall space during the cooler winter months. The market was devised by the municipality of Al-Rai, an industrial zone just northwest of Kuwait City, which oversees quality control and guarantees the traceability of the fungus.